Molt: A Natural Phenomenon in Backyard Chicken Keeping

The Kuntry Klucker Crew hunting for delectables on a freshly cut summer lawn

The first signs of changing seasons are clear as the buzz of cicadas fills the auto backdrop, a sign that late summer descends upon the northern hemisphere. Many backyard chicken keepers notice their flocks look disheveled as molt begins the slow transition of shedding feathers in preparation for the coming fall and winter seasons.

In late summer, many novice backyard chicken keepers are horrified to see feathers covering the coop and pen floor. While the scene resembles an attack from a nocturnal predator, feather loss is natural and affects all birds, including chickens. Molt is the biological process of feather replacement and occurs yearly in backyard flocks.

In this article, I will discuss what molt is, why it’s important, and what backyard chicken keepers can do to support their flocks during the molting process.

What Is Molt?

Fi (Silver Lace Polish Hen) sporting her stunning crest feathers after molt.

Molt is the process by which birds shed their old feather and replace them with new ones. Molt can vary by species, year, and by individuals. Molt is considered complete when the bird replaces all if its feathers. Molting typically progresses from the head to the tail over the course of several months. Some birds can lose more feathers at once appearing naked while others lose few to no feathers.

Image Credit: Archaeopteryx Restoration

Molting is as old as the linage of birds which began in the Mesozoic when dinosaurs roamed the earth. Birds are dinosaurs, specifically, birds are an advanced group called paravians, a clade of dinosaurs that is directly related to the mighty Tyrannosaurus Rex and the ferocious Velociraptor (Brusatte, 2018).

The signature feature of birds – feathers – evolved in their ground-dwelling theropod ancestors first noticed in Sinosauropteryx, the first dinosaur taxon outside parades to be found with evidence of proto-feathers.

Image Credit: Sinosauropteryx fossil.

The earliest feathers looked much different than the quill feathers of today. Initially, feathers evolved as multipurpose tools for display, insulation, protection for brooding, and sexual dimorphism. These early feathers were more like a fluff – appearing more like fur than feathers – consisting of thousands of hair-like filaments. Silkie chickens possess feathers that lack barbs that form the classic shape we associate with feathers. The first proto-feathers in dinosaurs were much like the texture of feathers on the Silkie. The breed name “Silkie” is derived from this unique feather texture.

Silkie flock grazing on a lush spring lawn. Silkies lack the barbs in their feathers that resemble protofeathers of their Mesozoic ancestors.

As the body plan for feathered dinosaurs continued to fine-tune the use of feathers, flight happened by accident. More advanced paravians had achieved the magical combination to achieve flight – large wings and smaller bodies (Brusatte, 2018). As the body plan of birds continued to refine, they lost their long tails and teeth, reduced to one ovary, and hollowed out their bones more to lighten their weight. By the end of the Cretaceous, birds flew over the heads of Tyrannosaurus Rex and other land-dwelling dinosaurs.

Sixty-six million years ago, the birds and T-rex witnessed the Chicxulub impact that brought the Mesozoic to a close. While therapods with large and expensive body plans died out, birds sailed through to the Cenozoic. The surviving non-avian dinosaurs carried with them the body plan seen in birds today, including the yearly process of molting.

Image Credit: Noelle K. Moser. Me peering through the fenestrae of Tyrannosaurus Rex specimen MOR555

Why is Molting Important?

The Kuntry Klucker Crew sifting through freshly spread hay for mealworms, a treat during the yearly molt.

Feathers, like skin or hair in humans, are replaced by the body regularly. Unlike humans who constantly shed skin cells, birds shed feathers annually.

Molting prepares a bird’s body for winter by replacing old feathers with new ones. During molt, backyard chickens will grow in the winter down needed for warmth. It is important for chicken keepers not to interfere with the molting process by placing chicken sweaters or other unnecessary items on the bird. While molting chickens can look naked and cold their bodies are built for this process.

How Can Backyard Chicken Keepers Help the Molting Flock?

Image Credit: Noelle K. Moser. Smog and Link (Silver Lace Wyandotte and Silver Lace Polish respectively) sporting stunning lacing feathers after molt.

During molt, birds will need increased protein in their diet to support feather regrowth. Providing mealworms is a great way to add affordable, healthy protein.

As pin feathers emerge, keepers must prevent irritating these new feathers. Pin feathers contain a fresh blood supply and are very sensitive to the touch. If new pin feathers are touched too roughly, they can bleed, causing pain and distress to the bird.

While molting, I do not hold my birds unless necessary and avoid touching the pin feathers if possible. Once the feathers fully develop it is safe to hold and interact with the flock again.

During the molting process, hens will decrease or cease laying altogether. During this time, the hen’s body uses all available energy to support feather regrowth. Once molting is complete, egg production will increase, and the flock will resume activity. After molting, the flock with new feathers will look stunning with fresh plumage and renewed vigor.

While lengthy at times, molting is a natural process for all birds and necessary for survival and life outdoors.

I am a multi-disciplinary writer, blogger, and web content creator. If you like this post, please visit some of my other blogs or online writing portfolio.

Image Credit: Noelle K. Moser. Me with the gargantuan relative of birds MOR555 Tyrannosaurus Rex, “Walter”. National Museum of Natural History. Washington, D.C.

Coffee and Coelophysis – A blog about Dinosaurs!

The Introvert Cafe – A Mental Health Blog

If you have any questions, please reach out. You can catch me at kuntryklucker@gmail.com or visit my YouTube Channel.

As always, thanks for reading. Till next time, keep on crowing!

Resources:

Brusatte, Steve. The Rise and Fall of the Dinosaurs: A New History of Their Lost World. William Morrow An Imprint of Harper Collins Publishers. New York, NY. 2018. (pgs. 282)

~ The Kuntry Klucker Crew ~

Backyard Chicken Health Inspection Guide: Preventing Illness in Your Flock

Buff, Silver-lace, and Golden lace Polishes gathered for routine health inspections.

Performing routine health inspections on chickens is essential and a prerequisite for a healthy flock. Like a check-up at a physician’s office, health inspections for chickens are much the same. Catching problematic pathologies before they occur requires routine health inspections.

I will discuss the process and procedure for conducting successful health inspections in a backyard flock. Beginning at the head down to the body and tail, I will include all the vital indications to prevent illness in the backyard flock.

Head, Eyes, Comb, and Waddles:

Apollo (White Crested Polish Hen) posing as I inspect her eyes for indications of ill health.

Starting at the crown of the head, inspect for mites and lice on the individual. If mites and lice are present treatment will be required. The eyes should be clear and free of debris. If crusting is present around the eye, gently wipe it away with a paper towel moistened with clean, warm water.

Dracula (Silver Lace Easter Egger) shaking his waddles for the camera.

The comb and waddles should be red and warm to the touch. Dried blood or pecking marks indicate flock disharmony and bullying. Monitor the flock and take appropriate actions to rectify the problem by isolating the bully or establishing a bachelor pen if roosters are sparring.

Legions or sores indicate fowl pocks (a common virus) or parasites such as fleas or ticks. Treatment with Eprinex will clear up external parasite infections. I have a video on my YouTube Channel showing my methodology to treat external parasites in my flock.

Neck:

Buff and Golden Lace Polish hens hunting and pecking as they search for delicious morsels.

Moving down the body, examine the neck of the bird. Feathers should be clean, and the base of the shaft should be visible. If clumps or residue surrounding the base of the quill is noticed, this indicates the presence of lice. Treatment with eprinex is warranted to address these external parasites.

Wings:

Lestat (White Crested Polish Rooster) proudly displaying his feathers to attract his favorite hens.

The wings of birds are among one of the favorite places for external parasites to congregate. Due to the warmth and protection from disruption, mites and lice can live rent-free. Parting the feathers and exposing the skin, tiny moving dark spots indicate red fowl mites. These small parasites feed on the host’s blood and must be addressed. Again, Eprinex works very well to address and abruptly stop a mite and lice infestation on the bird.

Tail and Vent:

Clean and health fluffy bottoms of a Buff Silkie, Black Australorp, and Silver Lace Wyandotte Rooster.

Like the wings, the vent is a favorite place for mites and lice to congregate. Due to the inability of the bird to preen this location, mites and lice will multiply unencumbered. Treatment for external parasites will rectify the infestation.

If the vent area is dirty or caked with dried or wet excrement, this indicates worms. Left untreated, intestinal worms will weaken and eventually cause death in affected individuals. Natural wormers such as Diamateous earth, pumpkin seeds, or apple cider vinegar will not address a high worm load in chickens. Worm infections should be treated with products developed to kill worms and the eggs in the intestinal tract. Another indication of worms is finding roundworms on the poop boards or worms visible in the eggs. See the video on my YouTube Channel using my flock to demonstrate proper dosage and administration.

Shanks, Feet, and Toes:

Bumblefoot in a Buff Orpingtons Hen

The shanks (legs) of the chicken should be neat; the scales should lie uniformly. Uplifted scales are a sign of leg mites and can be addressed by soaking the legs in warm Epsom salt, followed by applying Vaseline to the legs to smother the mites. Treatment with Eprinex is also helpful in advanced infestations.

The pad of the foot should be clean and without puncture wounds or signs of trauma. If a round scab is present on the foot, this is bumblefoot and can be addressed with simple steps to remove the corn (infection) and wrapped in gauze and vet wrap for healing. Bumblefoot is common in backyard flocks and not necessarily a reflection of poor flock management. For instructions on how to treat bumblefoot, please see my blog post on treatment in my flock.

Take care to use proper protection when treating bumblefoot

Use caution when treating bumblefoot as these infections are usually staph infections and zoonotic (passing from one species to another) and can affect humans. Medical gloves and masks for treatment are recommended. Sanitize all instruments with bleach to kill any bacteria before storage.

Routine health inspections are key for proper flock husbandry as problematic illnesses can be caught early and prevented through preventative efforts. For more information on caring for backyard chickens, please visit my YouTube Channel.

Stan (BHI 3303) Tyrannosaurus Rex and I. Perot Natural History Museum. Dallas, Texas.

I am a multi-disciplinary writer, blogger, and web content creator. To see more of my work visit my online writing portfolio and other sites.

Coffee and Coelophysis – A blog about dinosaurs!

Mesozoic plants at the National Botanical Gardens. Washington, D.C.

The Introvert Cafe – A mental health blog

As always, thanks for reading. Till next time, keep on crowing!

Me peering through an orbital fenestra of a Tyrannosaurus Rex. Cincinnati Natural History Museaum.

~ The Kuntry Klucker Crew ~

Healthy and happy backyard chicken flock strolling on a freshly cut spring lawn.

10 Things that I learned from My Hens

  1. Always greet the day with anticipation. Many great delicacies await.

2. Simplicity and a thankful heart are some of life’s greatest virtues.

hiding behind the water3. Bring up your young well. They are the next generation, and the key to your legacy.

4. When getting into mischief always make sure you have a buddy. Partners in crime always have more fun.

5. Make sure that you leave a little something for those who care about you. Giving is always better than recieving.

6. Try to appreciate the season of winter. Although bleak, it prepares the ground for spring flowers and other delectables.

7. Tend your gardens well. A well groomed garden makes the heart sing.

8. Choose your flock wisely, they will be your groupies for life.

9. Make time for friends. Friends make the heart happy.

10. Above all, be like butterflies, they hold the key to true freedom.

Hens can teach you so much about the simple pleasures of life. They are simple creatures that require little. They are happiest when they are allowed to do what nature intended them to do.

I hope you enjoyed this lesson on the simple pleasures of hens. They can teach us many things if we just take the time to watch and learn.

I am a published author, multi-disciplinary writer, and web content creator. If you like this post, please visit my writing portfolio or other blogs.

Coffee and Coelophysis – A blog about dinosaurs!

The Introvert Cafe – A mental health blog.

Chicken Math University – A homeschooling blog.

As always thanks for reading. Till next time, keep on crowing, see you soon!

~The Kuntry Klucker Crew~

Incredible Eclipse Observations and Dinosaur Displays at Cincinnati Museum Center

Me observing the eclipse at the Cincinnati Natural History Museum.

On April 8, 2024, the United States was in the path of totality of a Solar Eclipse. I recorded the flock’s reaction with a time-lapse camera and the eclipse with a Celestron telescope and Canon camera. Due to my location, I am just outside the path of totality; for better observation conditions, I traveled to Cincinnati, Ohio, and recorded the eclipse at the Cincinnati Natural History Museum. While there, I took in the museum’s dinosaur wing and captured some images of the Mesozoic ancestors of my backyard theropods.

Daspletosaurus and Tyrannosaurs Rex display at Cincinnati Museum Center. Daspletosaurus-Jurassic ancestor of Cretaceous apex predator T-rex-the blood of these dinosaurs’ pumps through the veins of my backyard flock.

While this blog is about raising and caring for backyard chickens, given the notoriety of the celestial event, observing the flock’s reaction to the solar eclipse is fascinating.

Image Credit: Noelle K. Moser. Cincinnati Natural History Museum Center prior to the onset of the solar eclipse.

Before leaving, I set up a time-lapse camera in the backyard to capture the flock’s behavior as the sun, blocked by the moon, darkened the land below. Like all birds, the behavior of the Klucker Crew is predictable but fascinating to witness, nonetheless.

As I was in two places at once, I will pair my observation and progression of the eclipse with the reactions of the flock for this post. As chickens are diurnal creatures and associate the waning of sunlight with nature’s ques to begin roosting, the flock demonstrated these behaviors only to be caught off guard during midday.

Smaug (Silver Lace Wyandotte Rooster) and Brian (Buff Lace Polish hen) eating at the feeder at the onset of the eclipse.

As the first signs of the moon moving in front of the sun began, activity in the backyard was routine. Occupying their time with hunting and pecking, the flock is blissfully unaware that something spectacular is about to unfold above their heads.

As the moon traversed more of the sun’s disk, the land below became transformed by the hint of waning sunlight. At this point in the eclipse process, the anticipative effects became apparent.

Back on the farm, as the sky slowly darkened, the flock noticed the early evening waning sunlight. Continuing to graze without sense of urgency, the flock slowly approached the pen.

As the eclipse approached totality, the landscape was transformed into a mural of twilight. On the ground crescent shaped shadows filtered through the leaves of a tree near my observation location at the Cincinnati Museum Center.

Crescent shaped shadows from the eclipse sun filtering through the leaves of a tree surrounding a Moon pie box, my snack of choice during eclipse observing.

As the sky above the Kuntry Klucker darkened, the solar lights on my grape arbor turned on, and the flock members stranded in the yard found themselves in the panorama of momentary darkness and confused before the sunlight returned as fast as it had receded.

Below are stills from a time-lapse camera in the pen recording the flock’s reaction to the eclipse. The camera shows that it got dark for a few moments, but not long enough for the flock to make their way up the ladder to the coop. Instead, they froze in place as sudden momentary darkness fell, only to be subsumed into increasing daylight.

The flock’s response was dumbfounded confusion as evening came on suddenly, not giving them much time to react. I hoped they would go to roost to have the sunlight return, rendering their efforts mute. Although I did not get the pics I anticipated, I captured some stunning images of the celestial event. Below is a chronological order of the eclipse as the moon traversed the sun.

At the Cincinnati Museum Center, the darkened sun yielded incredible photos of the landscape during the fleeting period of totality, allowing me several seconds of naked-eye observing.

This solar eclipse was an incredible celestial event that I am glad I had a chance to observe. While the flock’s reaction was subdued – due to the diminished totality and location at home – the images I captured in Cincinnati are incredible.

Below is a slideshow of the dinosaurs on display. Noteworthy, and one of the reasons I chose this location is the only mounted Torvosaurus in the world is at the Cincinnati Museum Center.

I am a published author, multi-disciplinary writer, and web content creator. If you like this post, please visit my online writing portfolio and my other blogs.

Coffee and Coelophysis – A blog about dinosaurs!

The Introvert Cafe – A mental health blog.

Chicken Math University – A blog about homeschooling.

Thanks for reading. Till next time, keep on crowing!

~ The Kuntry Klucker Crew ~

Image Credit: Noelle K. Moser. Me peering through the fenestrae of a tyrannosaurus Rex skull. Cincinatti Natural History Museum.

Why Does My Hen Have a Dirty Vent?

Dirty vents are not only unattractive but a sign that something is wrong. In this post, I will discuss the reasons for dirty vents in chickens and how to treat conditions that cause this problem.

A healthy Buff Silkie fluffy bottom.

A chicken is not supposed to have a dirty vent; underlying conditions and environmental factors cause excrement to be runny, sticking to feathers surrounding the vent and causing a messy and unsightly situation. Some conditions are as simple as placing supplements in the water; others require a closer examination and treatment.

Worms:

Treating worms in a bantam cochin hen with SafeGuard.

One of the most common reasons for dirty vents in chickens is worms. Intestinal worms wreak havoc on the digestive tract, causing malnutrition and dirty vents. Worm infections are evident in dropping.

A chicken’s body can withstand a baseline worm parasitic load without ill effects. Once the parasite load exceeds the point at which the body can manage the load, health problems will result. Worms visible in the droppings or on the dropping board when cleaning the coop are a reliable indication that the parasitic load has reached a critical point. At this point, it is advisable to treat the flock for worms. Once the flock has completed treatment, dirty vents associated with worms will resolve.

I have a post and YouTube video detailing the correct dosage and procedure for worming a flock.

Mites and Lice:

Treating mites and lice in a Silver Lace Wyandotte Hen with Eprinex.

Like worms, mites and lice will deplete a chicken of energy, leaving them anemic and lethargic. Dirty vents are one of the first indications that an individual may be dealing with a mite and lice infestation. To determine if mites and lice are present, pick up the chicken and examine the vent area for small dark brown to red bugs crawling on the skin; these are red fowl mites and are detrimental to the individual. They multiply fast and will suck the lifeblood out of a chicken in a short about of time.

Lice live in the feathers of a bird and will cause dirty vents and extreme discomfort to the individual. Like mites, lice will congregate around the vent area, appearing as light brown or tan bugs crawling on the feathers. In a progressive lice infestation, bundles of eggs will be visible on the quill near the skin.

Treatment for mites and lice is simple and requires one topical product to address both parasites. I have a blog post and YouTube Video demonstrating the correct dosage and procedure for treating mites and lice using my flock as examples.

Egg laying Issues:

Silkie eggs on a nesting pad.

Egg-laying issues such as soft-shelled eggs can result in dirty vents in hens. During the formation of the egg, reproductive medullary bone deposits form the shell around the yolk cell. When the calcium supply in the hen’s body is low, soft-shelled eggs cause the egg to break during the laying phase.

Adding supplemental calcium to the flock’s diet will address soft-shelled eggs. Most poultry feed contains calcium for hard shells that the hen’s body uses quickly. Oyster shells available at farm/feed stores add valuable long-absorption calcium that the hen’s body will process over 24 hours, providing the resources for hard shells that do not break during laying.

Oyster shells for stronger eggshells.

Offer oyster shells in a separate container in the pen or where the flock eats. The hens can determine the amount of supplemental calcium their body requires and will consume from the available oyster shells. Keep oyster shells available for laying hens during active laying periods. The hen’s body will use the long-absorption calcium to produce hard eggshells, reducing dirty vents.

Heat-Related Issues:

Apollo and Aphrodite (White Crested Polish hens) enjoying a summer evening sampling from a pot of marigolds.

A hen will drink more water during excessive heat and high humidity. The unbalance in the gut biome results in loose excrement and dirty vents. Adding electrolytes and probiotics to the flock water will address this issue. Not all electrolytes are alike; purchase a probiotic marketed for use in poultry. While watermelon and cucumbers are a nice treat for a hot summer day, they lack the essential electrolyte balance that a hen’s body needs during extreme heat.

A product I readily provide for my flock is Rooster Booster Vitamins and Electrolytes, found at Tractor Supply. Containing Lactobacillus, this product promotes a balanced gut biome during extreme heat. Since I have started using this, dirty vents due to summer temperatures have notably decreased.

Vent Gleet:

Unlike parasitic or environmental causes, vent gleet is an inflammation of the cloaca (the vent), causing an unsightly condition called cloacitis. The most obvious symptom of cloacitis is a yellowish discharge from the vent that sticks to the feathers around the vent area and presents with a foul odor. In addition to the aforementioned, a hen will have a bloated abdomen, and the vent area can appear red and inflamed.

Treatment for vent gleet involves a two-pronged approach with probiotics – Rooster Booster administered in water mentioned above – and anti-fungal cream. Begin treatment by isolating the affected hen from the flock. Wash the vent area with warm water and mild soap to remove the debris and dried excrement from the feathers. Carefully cut away feathers from the vent if necessary.

Monistat 7-day cream – treatment for yeast infections in women – works well for vent gleet in hens. For hens, apply a pea-sized amount of the cream externally around her vent daily. Repeat for 5-7 days or until the redness has subsided around the vent. Continue to keep the hen in isolation for treatment till her condition improves. In my experience, vent gleet treated with probiotics and anti-fungal cream will resolve in two weeks.

Buff Orpington hen’s healthy fluffy butt.

I am a multi-disciplinary writer, published author, and web content creator. If you like this post, consider visiting some of my other blogs.

Coffee and Coelophysis – A blog about dinosaurs.

Chicken Math University – A blog about homeschooling

The Introvert Cafe – A mental health blog.

If you have any questions or comments, please leave a comment or reach out to kuntryklucker@gmail.com. I check my email daily and will get back to you as soon as I can.

Thanks for reading! Till next time, keep on crowing!

~ The Kuntry Klucker Crew ~

Homemade Flock Block

As a dangerous winter storm will soon impact the Northern Hemisphere, people are preparing for impacts of snow, ice, and severe cold temperatures. Store shelves are picked clean, and pet and livestock owners are stocking essentials for their animals till the storm relinquishes its grip.

During this time, many backyard chicken keepers will need to confine the flock to the pen and coop. While the flock is cooped up, providing stimulating activities will assist the flock in weathering the worst of Old Man Winter.

The Kuntry Klucker and Henwarts covered in a blanket of freshly fallen snow.

When winter storms impact our region, I like to prepare my flock a homemade flockblock for my hens and gents. All ingredients are available in most home pantries or easy to obtain in stores. Over the past decade, I have had much success with this recipe, and the girls greatly enjoy the break from the winter blues with this boredom buster.

Ingredients:

2 cups of scratch grains (cracked corn is also good)

1 cup layer feed (pellets or crumbles)

1 Cup old fashioned oats

1/2 cup flax seed (ground or whole)

1/4 cup flour (whole wheat is best)

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

3 eggs (shells included)

1/2 cup blackstrap molasses

1/2 coconut oil

1 cup raisins (dried cranberries, blueberries, or bananas will also work)

Begin by placing the scratch and layer feed in a large bowl.

Add the oats.

Next, add the spices. The cinnamon aids in respiratory health in the cold weather and the cayenne pepper helps circulation.

Next, add the raisins. The raisins will promote pecking as they look like tasty bugs, plump after baking.

Mix all the dry ingredients together well. After mixing, add the flour and the eggs. Crush up the eggshells into smaller pieces when mixing. The eggshells will dehydrate while baking adding calcium to the final product.

After mixing the eggs in well, add the blackstrap molasses and coconut oil.

Continue to mix. As the molasses and coconut oil combines, the mixture should be sticky and hold a ball shape when compressed in the hand.

Select an oven baking pan and line with foil. Spray the foil with a cooking spray for easy release after baking.

For a large flock block, select a square baking dish. If you prefer to hang the flock block in the pen, bread pans work best because it is roughly the size of a standard suit feeder. For free-hang, a round pie dish works best. Poke a hole in the area where rope or twine be will inserted. You can also double the recipe to create a large flock block to fill a 9 x 13 baking dish.

Press the mixture into the chosen baking dish. Press hard to compact the mixture as much as possible. This will result in a dense flock block that will not fall apart when removing from the pan.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Place the baking dish or dishes into the oven and bake for 35 minutes.

After baking, cut the flock block into the desired size. If you plan to hang the flock block in a suit feeder, a bread pan flock block can be cut in half, into two equal sizes that will fit nicely. If you prefer a larger flock block to free-hang in the pen, cut a hole for the rope of twine.

Flock block cut to fit a suit feeder.

Do not try to remove the flock block from the baking pan till cool. Removing the flock block while warm will increase the chance that it will fall apart. As it cools, the flock block will harden making removal simple.

Once the flock block has cooled, remove by lifting the foil out of the pan and turn over. This recipe will freeze for several months when wrapped in plastic wrap and foil.

Wishing everyone the best. Stay safe during this historic winter storm and cold weather and remember to give your flock boredom busters to help them bide the time while cooped up.

If you enjoyed this post, please peck the subscribe button.

If you like this blog, please consider visiting some of my other sites and online writing portfolio.

Coffee and Coelophysis – A blog about dinosaurs!

Chicken Math University – A blog about homeschooling

As always, thanks or reading. If you have any questions, please leave me a comment or you can email me at kuntryklucker@gmail.com

Till next time, keep on crowing!

~ The Kuntry Klucker Crew ~

Winterizing Your Chicken Coop and Pen: 5 Tips for Free-Ranging in Winter

Snow covers the ground as flurries silently whisp through the air. The flock anxiously waits for me to open the coop door to the outdoors as the sun illuminates the land. Nature has intelligently equipped chickens to live outdoors and embrace the winter season. Winterizing a flock includes preparing the pen and coop for winter while allowing the flock access to fresh air and a few rays from the winter sun. Here are my five tips to free-range a flock in winter.

A Winterized Coop and Pen.

The Kuntry Klucker wrapped in plastic to keep the coop and pen clean and dry.

To successfully free-range a flock in winter, a winterized coop and pen are necessary. In addition to growing in new feathers, chickens will grow in winter down for the coming winter during the annual molt; the coats we put on when the temperature dips are the same coats the flock is wearing factory-installed. A backyard flock does not need artificial heat to survive the winter elements, just a draft-free, dry, and clean. A draft-free winterized coop allows the flock to gauge their comfort level, venturing outside and returning as necessary.

Access to a dust bath.

Buff Orpington Hens taking advantage of a prepared dust bath in The Kuntry Klucker pen.

Dust bathing is a natural instinctive behavior in chickens. Dust baths help to keep feathers clean and in good condition. During the winter, the ground covered with snow or wet limits access to natural dust bathing sites outside the coop. Providing a dust bath in a winterized pen allows the flock to continue their natural behaviors in the bleak winter. A mixture of peat moss, play sand, and wood ash is the perfect medium for a dust bath.

Boredom Busters.

During the winter, when snow covers the ground, the flock will appreciate boredom busters that will keep them entertained and engaged. Throwing some chicken scratch or corn on the ground will keep the flock entertained as they forage for the morsels. A flock block in the free-ranging area will help engage pecking instincts while snow covers the ground. Scratch placed in a plastic jar with holes will engage the flock with game play on cold winter days. Boredom busters keep the flock mentally engaged, promoting position behaviors that ease the winter blues.

Provide paths in deep snow for the flock to follow.

The flock following paths in the deep snow left by a winter storm.

Clearing paths in snow will allow the flock access to the outdoors. Chickens do not like snow and resist going outside if the snow is deep. Paths will encourage the flock to venture outside and natural behaviors. Scattering scratch or cracked corn on the paths will engage the flock in foraging behaviors that will keep the flock happy on the worst snow days.

Install Lighting in the Pen.

The Coop De Ville residents silhouetted by the glow of a red light in the coop.

During the short days of winter, the flock appreciates an illuminated pen. Placing a light in the pen will guide the free-ranging flock toward the coop as the sun sets. An illuminated pen will allow the flock to consume sufficient nutrients before roosting for a cold winter’s night. Laying hens will also produce eggs during winter in a well-light pen. Once the flock is locked up and secured, turn off the light to allow the flock adequate sleep.

I am a multi-disciplinary writer, blogger and web content creator. If you like this post, peck the subscribe button below.

If you like this blog, please visit my Online Writing Portfolio to read a larger body of my work.

As always, thanks for reading. If you have any questions, please post in the comments or drop me an email at kuntryklucker@gmail.com. I will get back to you as soon as possible.

Till next time, keep on crowing!

~ The Kuntry Klucker Crew ~

Can Backyard Chickens make you sick?

Hi everyone!! I hope your summer has been well and that you packed all the fun into it as humanly possible. I know I have been absent for a while; it’s been a busy summer. It’s funny how the summer months can turn an average functioning family into a frenzy. Well, that is what summer has been like for us, been busy with activities and of course keeping up what the girls, growing and harvesting season. With the majority of the gardens work behind me I wanted to take the time to touch on a subject that I have been asked by several of my followers. Can owning backyard chickens make you sick?

Earlier this month the CDC released an article/report that backyard chickens are responsible for salmonella outbreaks across the country. Sickening people even sending some to the hospital, but so far, no deaths have occurred, well that’s good. As fear ridding as this sounds, I want to take the time and put my two cents in and tell my side of the story as a backyard chicken keeper.

The long and short of it is Yes, backyard chickens can make you sick, but so can your cat, dog, and pet parrot. You see any animal that lays eggs carries the salmonella bacteria, this includes, pet turtles, snakes, bearded dragons, and of course backyard chickens. It is a bacterium that all egg laying animals/reptiles carry in their body. This is why it is advisable that one wash your hands good with soap and water after handling. It a pretty simple common-sense step to take to avoid illness after contact with pets that can carry the salmonella bacteria. Not that this gets your cat and dog off free and easy without incident. Cats and dogs especially if they are allowed to run free outside can also make you sick. They too can come into contact with pathogens that can be transmitted to you. So really your small flock of backyard chickens are no more dangerous to your health then fluffy or fido.

So why does the CDC single out backyard chickens? Well, I think that the answer is twofold. One, keeping backyard chickens has a direct impact on the factory farm producers of eggs and for some, meat for the table. When consumers take it upon themselves to have a say in where their food comes from the big factory farm producers take a big hit.

It does not help their matters that the backyard chicken movement has exploded by leaps and bounds. Keeping backyard chickens is no more common than a family having a dog roaming the backyard. Even cities have passed laws to allow residents to keep a small number of hens in the small plots behind their homes. It’s a movement that is growing every year which is one reason why people like me who blog about backyard chickens are seeing a huge increase in readers. Potential keepers are seeking out information on how to care and sustain a small backyard flock, this is where people like me come into play.

Secondly, I think part of the problem is that people are cuddling their chickens like they would a cat or dog and inadvertently getting sick in the process. The CDC is right when they state that you should not kiss your pet chickens or allow young kids to hold chicks. This is because young children have an increased risk of putting their hands in their mouths after interacting with chicks. But this same rule can be applied to any pet, not just backyard chickens.

So, what is my stance you may be asking? Well to put it simply, wash your hands! I have been a keeper of backyard chickens for almost 10 years now, I have never become sick due to handling or having contact with my flock. The only chicken I have contracted illness from and took ill was from chicken that I ordered at a restaurant.

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My girls have never made me sick in anyway or caused any ill effect in the entire time I have been keeping chickens. Protecting yourself and your family from illness takes nothing more than a commonsense approach. Whenever I come inside from interacting the girls the first thing, I do is wash my hands well with soap and water. I don’t need to submerge myself in alcohol or bleach, a simple thorough hand washing is all that is needed. Additionally, I only wear my “coop” cloths into the backyard when interacting with my girls. Not only is this just a good common-sense move, but it also keeps me from getting my nice cloths dirty. Chickens can be messy so I would not want to wear nice cloths to the backyard anyway. So, wearing clothes that I don’t mind getting dirty that I wear nowhere else and take off and put directly in the washer after coming inside is nothing more than common sense.

So, as you can see just taking simple steps after spending time with the girls is all that is needed. One need not be afraid to own or handle backyard chickens because all that is needed to protect yourself a simple act of washing your hands well after contact.

Now, as far as kissing backyard chickens this is probably advice well worth taken. I love my girls, but I never kiss them for several reasons. Chickens are very interested in human eyeballs, they look like treats to them, I cannot tell you how many times I have seen pics of people on Facebook after getting pecked in the eye by their chicken. It hurts and, in some cases, and cause irreversible damage. So, to keep my eyes safe I keep my face well out of the way of the curiosity of a chicken. It just makes perfect sense.

Secondly, kissing your chicken can be hazardous for your health. I know that a lot of people do, but the line stops there for me. I will tell my girls how much a love them and how pretty they are, but my lips are never laid on them. They live outside bathe in dirt and can carry some pathogens on their feathers that I would rather not have in my mouth. So, my love line stops there, I do not kiss my birds. So, yes, backyard chickens can make you sick but the routes to avoid this are very simple and only require soap, water, and facial/eyeball distance.

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So, enjoy your backyard birds just make sure to wash your hands and keep your eyes and lips away from their curious beaks. If you practice good hygienic commonsense, you will have a very happy relationship with your girls enjoying all the benefits of having backyard chickens.

I am a published author, multi-disciplinary writer and blog contributor. If you like this blog, please visit some of my other sites.

Coffee and Coelophysis – A blog about dinosaurs!

Chicken Math University – Adventures in Homeschooling.

Knowledge of the Spheres – Exploring the Celestial Spheres.

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As always, thanks for reading. Till next time, keep on crowing.

~ The Kuntry Klucker Crew ~

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A Boy and his Rooster.

Some kids have dogs, cats, goldfish or guinea pigs as pets. My son however has a pet rooster. It did not start out this way but it has ended up this way. This is the story of a boy and his rooster.

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You see Roy, our resident backyard rooster has had a few set backs with his health in the past few years. This often requires me to separate him from the girls in order to tend to his needs and treat him individually. He came to our farm the way the other girls did when I ordered our chicks and that arrived in the mail as a small peeping box.

He however was different, he has always been rather fearless and bull headed. He hates my husband due to the fact that it is often he who pushes the lawn mower, which he hates. For the longest time I was the only one who could go out the the backyard and pick him up with out being threatened with a confrontation. Now the roles have totally reversed.

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This all started a few summers ago when Roy was attacked by a hawk. I never saw the hawk or the confrontation, I only saw the after effects. Roy apparently won the fight because he was alive when I found him although injured. The hawk attacked his head causing some pretty nasty wounds which I treated. He made a full physical recovery but not a neurological one. You see when the hawk attacked him it went after his head, his skull was not broken but I wonder if Roy hit his head or twisted his neck when the Hawk tried to lift him than dropped him (judging by his injuries and the crime scene).

Later that summer I went out to the backyard to check on the girls and found him passed out on the ground. After later assessment it was determined that he possibly had a stroke or some other health malfunction which caused him collapse. Ever since these two events he has had health issues and often has episodes where he cannot walk well and needs some special care.

I separate him from the girls because chickens have natural cannibalism habits which from an evolutionary perspective is beneficial in flock survival. You see a weak member exposes the whole flock to predators, so to counter the effect of this issue the flock will literally kill and eat the sick or injured member. This is all well and good except for one problem, the girls are domesticated and protected from most predators and are pets not food. Our rooster is no different. He is a our pet and a member of our backyard family, we just don’t eat family members no matter how sick.

So his life as a bachelor began. After some time of him living in a large dog kennel I finally purchased a small chicken coop for him to live in. It has been affectionally named “Roy’s Roost”. He has taken very well to his new digs and has improved quite a bit with all the loving care he has been receiving.

Now enter my son. Upon ordering this coop I had no intentions of selling out chicken care to my kids. However, once we got this coop put together my son took to it like a fly to sugar. He loved it!! It is small, easy to clean and maintain, and just his size. The resident rooster needing a bit of loving care has accepting my son as his nurse nightingale. The two have bonded and formed a close relationship. I take care of the Kuntry Klucker girls while my son takes care of Roy’s Roost.

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Roy looks forward to his boy coming out and taking care of him every day. He is wide awake, looking out the coop windows eagerly waiting for him. He clucks and coos to him and my son lovingly talks back. I never thought that my son would form a strong bond with our flock rooster, but behold it has happened. It is the sweetest thing to see the two of them out in the yard together.

Roy is doing much better, he has his good days and his bad days. Some days his legs give him trouble and some days he is out in the backyard with my kids playing. I don’t know how much time he has left with us, but I do know that till the very end he will be loved, spoiled, and adored by the boy who Roy has adopted as his caretaker.

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Some kids have dogs, cats, or goldfish as pets. My son has a rooster. This was the story of a boy and his rooster.

Thanks for reading, the girls and I will be back with more adventures and stores soon.

~The Kuntry Klucker Crew~

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